How to Plant a Tree: The Correct Process Step by Step

To plant a tree correctly, dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper. Set the root flare at or just above the soil line. Then backfill with native soil, water deeply, and spread a thin ring of mulch that stays off the bark.

The hole size and depth come from the planting guide on TreesAreGood.org. Most planting failures trace back to a few avoidable mistakes, and planting too deep is the worst. Here is the full process, step by step.

Step 1: Find and expose the root flare

Before the tree goes in the ground, find the root flare. That is where the trunk widens and turns into roots. On nursery stock, extra soil or packing material often hides it.

Gently scrape the top of the root ball until you reach the flare. You may uncover the top of the first major root, which is the sign you want. After planting, the flare should sit at or just above the finished grade.

If the flare sits deep in nursery soil, remove that soil from the top of the root ball. This step is correct and necessary. TreesAreGood.org says the trunk flare should be "partially visible after the tree is planted."

Planting too deep is one of the most common and damaging mistakes. A buried flare stays damp, which invites decay and fungus. It also blocks normal air exchange at the base of the trunk.

Trees planted too deep often decline slowly over many years. Unfortunately, the cause often goes unnoticed until the damage is serious.

Step 2: How big should the planting hole be?

Make the hole as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide. The bottom should be firm, undisturbed native soil for the root ball to rest on. If you dig too deep and backfill loosely, the tree will settle and bury the flare.

Width matters more than depth for a new tree. Early roots spread mostly sideways, and loose soil lets them spread faster. So a wide, shallow hole beats a narrow, deep one.

Roughen the sides of the hole instead of leaving them smooth. In clay soil, a slick-sided hole acts like a bucket and holds water. By contrast, rough sides let water drain and roots push through.

Step 3: Place the tree and check the depth

Set the root ball on the firm bottom of the hole. Then check that the root flare sits at or slightly above the surrounding grade. If the tree sits too low, add firm soil underneath. If the flare is still buried, remove more soil from the top.

Turn the tree so its best side faces where you'll see it most. Also straighten any lean before you backfill, because moving it later disturbs the roots.

Step 4: Remove wire, burlap and containers

For balled-and-burlapped trees, take these steps once the tree sits in the hole:

• Remove the wire basket, or at least cut off the top rings so it sits low. Wire left near the surface can girdle roots as the tree grows.
• Cut away the top third to half of the burlap and fold it down into the hole. Natural burlap breaks down, but it should never stay around the root flare. Synthetic burlap has to come out completely.
• Take any rope or twine off the trunk and the top of the root ball.

For container-grown trees, remove the container completely. Then check for circling roots that wrap around the outside of the root ball. Straighten, cut or score them, since circling roots can later girdle the trunk.

Step 5: Should you amend the backfill soil?

No. Backfill with the soil you took out of the hole, with no potting soil, compost, peat or fertilizer. TreesAreGood.org also says to "Avoid fertilizing at the time of planting."

Amended soil creates a pocket with a different texture and drainage around the root ball. Roots tend to stay in that pocket instead of moving out into native soil. As a result, native backfill helps roots spread outward sooner.

Break up clods as you go, and firm the soil gently in layers to remove air pockets. However, don't stomp it hard; just firm it enough to close the gaps.

Step 6: Water thoroughly at planting

Water slowly and deeply right after planting, until the soil is moist to the bottom of the root ball. This settles the soil and closes air pockets. Still, it is only the first watering, not the full establishment plan.

Step 7: Mulch the root zone

Spread a 2 to 3 inch layer of wood chips or shredded bark over the root zone. TreesAreGood.org recommends that depth, plus a mulch-free gap of 1 to 2 inches at the base of the trunk. A wider ring helps more, so extend it as far as you can. Mulch does four jobs:

• Moderates soil temperature
• Holds moisture in the root zone
• Crowds out competing grass and weeds
• Feeds soil life as it breaks down

The key detail: keep mulch off the bark. Mulch piled against the trunk keeps the root collar wet and invites decay, disease and pests. That cone of mulch you often see around trees is called "volcano mulching," and it does real harm.

Step 8: Should you stake a new tree?

Only stake a tree if it can't stand upright on its own. Trunk movement in the wind builds taper and stronger wood. So a staked tree that can't sway builds less structural wood.

If you must stake a tall, thin tree on an exposed site, set the stakes outside the root ball. Use flexible ties that allow some movement. TreesAreGood.org says to "Remove stakes after first year of growth." Ties left on too long can cut into the growing trunk.

After planting: the establishment period

Good planting sets the tree up, and steady watering finishes the job. A new tree needs extra water until its roots spread well past the original root ball. Our tree care after planting guide covers the watering schedule and first-year care.

GXB Precision Tree Care provides professional tree planting across Dutchess County. The crew works through these same steps, from finding the root flare to the last layer of mulch.

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